It was a relief to look out of the hotel window this morning and see the true potential of Shanghai’s skyline. Little did I know at that point how dizzy this skyline would make me feel. Even with my feet planted firmly on the ground I spent most of the day gazing upwards at these buildings towering down on us. There were times when I felt that these buildings were chasing me. Whichever way I turned there were more of them following my every step.
We’ve taken more than a few steps today in sweltering temperatures and I enjoyed every one of them. Shanghai is not like any of the other Chinese cities I’ve visited (Beijing, Tianjin, Chongqing) Shanghai is, how should I put this, more familiar.
We’re staying in the French Concession so the European influences are still quite strong. That touch of Europe is what makes Shanghai more familiar. I am also getting closer to Shanghai that I ever have before in a Chinese city. This time we’re on foot between the “sights” compared to my previous visits where I’ve been ferried to and fro by hospitable and knowledgeable locals. There is nothing like experiencing things first hand from the pavement although I admit today it would have been nice to have been cooling off in an air conditioned vehicle.
There are so many highlights I’m not going to pick a favourite. Also, there are so many pictures I’ve had a hard time picking a few out (few being a comparative term when you’ve wracked up a few hundred). There are as you can imagine lots of the Shanghai architecture but to save you from skyline overload I’ll share with you some of the real Shanghai.
But first, you’ll recall our taxi nightmare from yesterday. This sign sums up our journey. We went up and down all of these roads a few times before heading off in a completely different direction. I’ll give the driver credit he was pretty close to the hotel, just not close enough!
But to be fair he did better than I ever would driving here in Shanghai. How the heck are you supposed to know which lane to take?
These guys don’t seem to be directionally challenged. In fact these guys weren’t bothered at all about following the highway code. At least they don’t have the stupid give way to people turning right here like they have in New Zealand.
Crossing the road is quite an adventure here. Some of the roads are so wide it can take a few minutes to get across. It’s not surprising that drivers get bored with waiting and simply plough on regardless.
Come to think of it though, walking the pavements is quite an adventure too with most of them being dug up or repaired. Last night we were walking along and all of a sudden the brick paving ran out and it was just the base sand complete with a few piles of paving bricks for you to navigate around. I pity someone walking back a little unsteady on their feet from the bar unaware of such perils in their way.
Whilst there is plenty to amuse me about Shanghai, none more so that the sheer number of bamboo ladders there are. Not to mention the sheer number of buildings that are being propped up with bamboo poles or scaffolding systems made of bamboo. It was hair raising to think what might happen if one of those bamboo poles came tumbling down.
Like most Chinese cities, Shanghai is busy and crowded. But unlike other cities in China I’ve visited Shanghai seems to have streets of infinite capacity. They seem to expand to accommodate the teeming crowds giving everyone just enough personal space not to feel claustrophobic. I do wonder though whether it’s just their way of dealing with the heat and humidity. After all you don’t want to get too close to other people as it’s bad enough just dealing with your own body heat let alone having to deal with the energy and moisture output of too many other people.
Having said all that it is a weekend right now and perhaps when the workers return to the city tomorrow we’ll be dealing with a whole different picture. There are at least lots of tree line boulevards to meander along. So far it’s all been reasonably pleasant to wander in day light and after dark. Most shops are open until 10.30pm so there are plenty of other people around making you feel safety in numbers.
Our first sightseeing destination this morning was the venue for the First National Congress of the Chinese Communist Party.   This was a fascinating insight into China’s explanation of history and the background to how the Party came to power. Seeing these flags flying is a useful reminder that China is still under it’s rule.
The first congress of the Chinese Communist Party was held on July 23, 1921. In 1952, the meeting place was turned into a memorial hall. The heritage gray brick building has been renovated as part of the Xintiandi development. There is an exhibit that showcases the participants of the Congress including a display figurines showing the young Mao Ze Dong in discussion with his comrades. One can’t help but feel a sense of irony that this heritage site is now part of a fully fledged bourgeoise stomping ground where boutiques, bars and cafes serve wealthy locals and tourists.
The redeveloped area itself is really quite stunning. There has been lots of care and attention to renovate what had become a slum area back to showcase colonial and Chinese architecture and give visitors a glimpse of what it may have been like living in Shanghai in the 1920s.
Today the alleys are clean and bright with opium dens replaced by trendy jewellers and art galleries. You can still get a sense of what it may have been like.
These shikumen houses are really quite something. Large and airy with a logic to their design and construction and it’s clear to see how they operated as hubs for families and the wider community.
Parks in Shanghai play a similar role as community hubs. We visited Renmin Park where there was plenty of community engagement going on. For example, men gambling over cards.
Or parents trying to catch a suitable marriage partner for their beloved child. They display their credentials for other parents to see – no photos required as that is not a primary requirement of a suitable match.
The parks themselves are well landscaped and looked after. Although not many flowers they have meandering paths that are still visually attractive.
Although we did spy some attractive water lilies.
If you’re still with me on this journey through Shanghai, congratulations, I admire your stamina. Almost there, I promise, it’s time for a rest!
There were a couple of quirky sights I saw today that I can’t resist blogging about.
Don’t let it be said that China is not doing it’s bit for global warming.
Nor leading the field in advanced public conveniences. Although I have to say the one in our hotel bathroom is rather impressive – an advanced loo – complete with built in programmes for washing and drying! And, no I’ve not tried the special features out….not yet anyway.
All in all it’s been an action packed day with lots of other things we saw but I’ll save those stories for another day. For now I’ll leave you with one of the zillion skyline shots I took.
It’s the juxtaposition of old and new that strikes me most today. Whether it’s buildings or culture, Shanghai is a city of contrasts. In only one day Shanghai has leapt close to the top of my favourite cities in the world. We’ll see over the next few days whether it reaches any loftier heights in my tourist best picks. For now it’s time for a bit of rest before we venture forth and enjoy more of the Shanghai nightlife.
Read that as a quick bite to eat before crashing out early!
I’ve really enjoyed the guided tour so far. My favourite has been the restored buildings, the western influenced architecture still has that feel of the exotic, of another culture. As an armchair travellor it’s so interesting to see how other people live. The similarities and the differences such as street signs in familiar colours but totally unreadable. Self driving would be an impossibility. Looking forward to the next installment. Have a great day.
i’m also enjoying your guided tour. i came to your site for a glimpse into NZ life and ended up in China!
Fantastic photos giving a real view into Shanghai – Thanks its really fascinating.
Fascinating. I’ve just scanned through your recent travel posts and am in awe of these splendid photographs that so capture the atmosphere. I’m going to sit down tonight to properly digest it all. I’m amazed you’re managing to find the time (and energy) to write up all this – but I guess it’s probably nice to retreat to air-conditioned comfort from time to time!